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Ubon Ratchatani and the Eastern Gateway to Laos


The province of Ubon Ratchatani is the most easterly in Thailand. In the May issue I showed you the Yasathon Rocket Festival and in last months I looked at the candle festival. These are for some the only reason to visit the province but a couple of weeks ago I joined Greater Mekong Sub-region Alliance to learn what else the area has to offer.

Having traveled overnight on a specially chartered bus we arrived into the provincial capital of Ubon Ratchatani at daybreak. After a quick stop for a shower, change and breakfast at Tohsang Ubon Hotel we set to explore the region.

Our first stop was at Wat Nong Pa Phong 6kms from the provincial capital off Highway 2178. A former cemetery and now a forest temple and meditation center founded by the revered ecclesiastic, the late Acharn Cha, who taught the discipline of Buddhist meditation to foreign males. He was also responsible for opening Buddhist temples overseas.

From there we headed for Route 212 in the direction of Amnat Charoen to visit Wat Nong Bua. Best known for its rectangular chedi this temple is built over 50 years ago in the style of India's Bodhagaya, the site of the Lord Buddha's enlightenment, more than 2,500 years ago.

The symbol of Ubon Ratchatani is the image large carved candle in the city park. Rather than made of wax, it is built in cement painted to look as if it's a real candle.

Having explored the provincial capital we headed for Khongjiam (on some maps spelt Chiam) on the bank of the Mekong River, the boarder between Thailand and Laos. We stayed over night at the delightful Tohsang Khongjiam Resort overlooking the 'Mighty Mekhong'. Here the sun rises anywhere from 15 to 25 minutes earlier in Bangkok and was the first point in Thailand to witness the dawn of the new millennium.

While crossing the river into Laos is not permitted crossings at Chongmek to the market town of Champasack is for a fee of just B10. The market offers a wide selection of Laoation Silk and Beer Laos at B20 a can. Tourist who is already in possession of a visa for Lao PDR can enter the country at this boarder point open 8am-6pm daily. Likewise its possible to re-enter Thailand at this boarder crossing.

Having crossed the boarder into Laos one can head for the town of Pakse at the confluence of the Mekong and Don rivers. In 1968 Prince Bounome started to build a five-storey palace but never had time to finish it. It's now converted into a luxury hotel.

East of the town, the mountain Phu Ba Chieng faces its lover Phu Malong, on the other bank of the Mekong.

Phu Pasak, 30kms south of Pakse, on the right bank of the Mekong is a 75m high hill, shaped like an immense lingam, the phallic symbol of the god Shiva. A scared prehistoric site where it's believed that human sacrifices were made.

Possibly the most interesting place to visit in the area is not in Ubon Ratchatani province but in fact in the neighbouring Si Sa Kit - Preah Vihear. For years there has been controversy over whether the temple is in Thailand or Cambodia. Either way this is the most remarkable setting of all Khmer temples. Perched a cliff edge of the Dongrek range of mountains overlooking Cambodia 600 metres below. Due to its strategic location it was closed controlled for decades by the Khmer Rouge. It wasn't until after the death of Pol Pot that it opened permanently in August 1998.

Located 36 kms south of the Thai town of Kantharalak and access is across the Thai boarder before entering a series of causeways and steps stretching 800 metres from the entrance up through five gopuras to the main sanctuary. The Cambodian army guard entrance to the site collecting an entrance fee of B200 from each visitor whilst the Thai army earns their money from the parking area, shops and restaurants at the foot of the temple, on Thai soil.

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